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Kathmandu Travel Guide [Updated] A Comprehensive Travel Guide to Thamel and Beyond

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Since I first visited Nepal in 2009, it’s a place I’ve always felt a real connection to it. Not only for its intense natural beauty & adventurous opportunities but somehow there’s a calmness that radiates from the busy streets of Kathmandu. Plus, the warmth of the Nepalese people who’ve always made me feel as though I have a second home in Kathmandu. Keep reading for the ultimate (and updated) Kathmandu travel guide, including the best places to eat & sleep, things to do, and finding the best nightlife in Thamel.

Briefly, about me

Along with my best friend, Bianca, I’ve been to Nepal a total of 8 times. When we first visited Kathmandu as volunteers, we were placed at a boarding school for underprivileged children called Snowlands School. We were eager to spend time caring for the children & assisting the school in any way we could. It wasn’t long before I was in love with everything about this experience. 

The kids didn’t want anything from us other than our time and attention. Not once did I hear anyone complaining. I remember a time watching a group of boys playing soccer. The ball had a hole in it so it was slowly going flat. That didn’t stop them from enjoying themselves, they knew that was the only ball they had so instead of complaining or asking for a new one, they just got on with it and still had fun. 

Over the years I’ve seen many things change in Kathmandu (one of them is, thankfully, a lot less rubbish on the streets) and I have been lucky enough to meet so many people from all over the world.

I now work closely with an NGO called In Giving We Receive (IGWR). This charity is made up of a small group of Australian volunteers who work closely with local communities in Kathmandu. They ensure that 50+ children have safe & happy homes and also receive the education all children in the world deserve. Since 2011 I’ve been lucky enough to sponsor a boy named Sandesh, and this wouldn’t be possible without IGWR.

View from above of bright green and lush rice Fields in Kathmandu, Nepal
Kathmandu Travel Guide
Kids in Nepal ready to go to school
IGWR School Kids
Two young Nepalese Children sitting down in uniform against a blue wall

The Ultimate Kathmandu Travel Guide

Over the years, I’ve also had time to explore Nepal’s lively capital city. Finding the best things to do in Kathmandu, along with the best bars, restaurants and nightlife in Thamel.

Kathmandu can no doubt be frustrating at times, with the thick air pollution, nagging of street vendors, car horns and rubbish. But if you take a minute to look past all this, you will see that Kathmandu is an incredibly unique city. A spiritual hub with the kindest people, who will happily welcome you into their homes. And, a city steeped in captivating history, offering visitors an enchanting journey through ancient temples, centuries-old traditions, and a rich cultural heritage.

This Kathmandu travel guide will prove to you why any Nepal itinerary needs to allow for more than just a couple of days in the city. Beyond the immediate allure, Kathmandu’s intricate layers of culture, diverse neighbourhoods, and hidden gems promise a deeper and more immersive experience, making it clear that a mere couple of days just won’t do!

Arriving in Kathmandu

Nepal only has one international airport, so unless arriving by land, you’ll fly into Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu. This airport is fairly small so easy to navigate and recently the arrivals hall had an upgrade so it’s not quite as basic as it once was.

It’s important to always check the latest government advice but generally speaking, most countries can get a visa on arrival for Nepal. 

On Arrival Visa Fee;

15 Days – 30 USD
30 Days – 50 USD
90 Days – 125 USD

From the moment you step out of the terminal building in Kathmandu, the city will hit you right in the face. The smells, sounds, hectic nature of the taxi drivers trying to get your business. And, of course, a few friendly street dogs running around. Don’t let this overwhelm you, Kathmandu is a lively city that means no harm. 

If you aren’t interested in haggling with taxi drivers straight after you land, perhaps pre-book an airport transfer to your hotel. But if you have Nepalese rupees on hand and are ready to haggle, a taxi from the airport to Thamel should cost between 600-800 rupees. 

Thamel

Welcome to Thamel, the vibrant heart of Kathmandu that pulsates with energy and culture. Amidst the bustling streets and narrow alleys, you’ll find hotels, restaurants & cozy cafes. Plus, quirky shops selling intricately carved handicrafts and vibrant textiles. Thamel is a sensory playground! While walking through the narrow streets, alongside taxis, rickshaws, bikes, dogs & tourists, I somehow always feel completely at peace & relaxed. 

Then as day turns into night, Thamel transforms into a lively hub of entertainment, with live music spilling out from its charismatic bars and clubs.

Whether you’re seeking spiritual solace at an ancient temple, haggling for unique souvenirs, or simply soaking in the chaotic charm, Thamel is an adventure waiting to be embraced. I love losing myself in its intoxicating blend of tradition and modernity. While meeting locals who always have a story to tell and leave an indelible mark on a journey through Kathmandu.

Walking down the colorful streets of Kathmandu, one of the things I miss about travelling
Thamel, Kathmandu
Busy street with a large knot of electrical wires. Two men on rickshaws on the road. Kathmandu Travel Guide
Fruit salesmen in Kathmandu. His bicycle is holding the fruit and he is weighing two mangos

The Best Things To Do In Kathmandu

No Kathmandu travel guide would be complete without these 10 sites; 

Pashupatinath Temple

This is a sacred Hindu temple located on the banks of the Bagmati River. It’s the oldest Hindu temple in Kathmandu. Here you’ll see amazing architecture and possibly witness the spiritual rituals of locals farewelling their loved ones. Cremations of Nepalese take place daily on the river’s ghats. It’s a very special place that you’ll want to take your time to experience. 

The entry fee for foreigners is 1,000 rupees and Pashupatinath is open every day. 

Boudhanath Stupa (aka Boudha)

Boudha is one of the largest stupas in the world and a very important place for Nepalese & Tibetan Buddhist communities in Kathmandu. During your visit experience the tranquillity of this massive stupa, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and explore the vibrant shops and cafes that surround it.

Before you start shopping and picking a spot for lunch, walk around the stupa three times clockwise. Even amongst the crowds, this walk can feel like a meditation as you witness locals worshipping and admire the colourful prey flags flapping in the breeze.

When deciding where to eat there are countless options but try finding somewhere with rooftop seating and on a clear day you will even see the snow-covered Himalayas in the distance.

The entry fee for foreigners is only 400 rupees and Boudhanath Stupa is open every day.

Swayambhunath

Swayambhunath is more affectionately known as Monkey Temple, although these days there are more dogs than monkeys. The complex consisted of a stupa and a variety of shrines and temples. 

It’s located on a hilltop just on the outskirts of Kathmandu, so offers panoramic views of the city and a serene atmosphere. Swayambhunath is primarily Buddhist but it’s lovely to see a hint of Hinduism amongst it all. 

There are two ways to reach the iconic stupa, to climb the 365 steps, adorned with prayer flags and inhabited by many of the mischievous monkeys. Or, arriving from the back entrance and being greeted by 3 stunning golden Buddha statues and fewer stairs. 

The entry fee for foreigners is only 200 rupees and Swayambhunath is open every day. 

Kathmandu Durbar Square

Immerse yourself in the historical heart of Kathmandu by visiting Durbar Square. Where ancient palaces, temples, and courtyards showcase the city’s rich history and architecture.

This UNESCO World Heritage Site transports you back in time and tells tales of Nepal’s royal history. All while the bustling atmosphere around Durbar Square reflects the vibrant pulse of contemporary Kathmandu life.

However, the devastating earthquake of 2015 left its mark on this historical treasure. Though amazing efforts have been made to restore its former glory, signs of the earthquake’s impact are still visible today. I see this as a reminder of the city’s resilience and the ongoing work to preserve its cultural heritage.

The entry fee for a foreigner is 1,000 rupees and the same ticket can be used multiple times. Kathmandu Durbar Square is also open daily. 

Narayanhiti Palace Museum

On the doorstep of Thamel is the palace that formally served as the residence and primary workplace of the reigning monarch of the kingdom of Nepal. This meticulously preserved royal palace offers a captivating glimpse into Nepal’s regal history.

It’s an essential stop on your Kathmandu travel guide. The museum unveils opulent chambers, intriguing artifacts, and vivid stories that provide a window into the lives of the monarchy, and sets the scene of the devastating massacre that occurred in 2011 (you can still see the bullet holes in the walls). 

Narayanhiti Palace Museum entry fee is 1,000 rupees for foreigners and no cameras can be taken inside. The palace is open from 10:30 – 15:30 every day except Wednesday and on Tuesday it closes at 13:30. 

Pashupatinath Temple
Sitting on the ground, in front of a large white stupa in Kathmandu, Nepal
Boudhanath Stupa
Best places to see in Kathmandu, Swayambhunath
Swayambhunath
Local monk standing in crowd holding bowl. Surrounded by pigeons at Kathmandu Durbar Square
Kathmandu Durbar Square

Garden of Dreams

Located only a few minutes walk from the palace are the most beautiful and peaceful gardens in Kathmandu. Stepping through the main gates is like being transported into a different world. The air is suddenly fresh and the noise from the busy streets can hardly be heard.

The Garden of Dreams is exceptionally well maintained and has much in common with formal European gardens. Classy pavilions, fountains, varied garden beds and a large pond in the middle. This is the perfect escape from the hustle and bustle of Thamel.

The entry fee for foreigners is 400 rupees and Garden of Dreams is open daily from 9:00 – 18:00.

Hike to Jamchen Vijaya Stupa

Distinctively positioned amidst the serene hills of Kathmandu, the Jamchen Vijaya Stupa stands as a symbol of spiritual tranquillity. Embarking on the hike to this sacred site starts from Budhanilkantha Temple (which is also worth admiring) and the 1-hour hike will not only rewards you with breathtaking panoramic views of the city below but also offers a profound connection to Nepal’s Buddhist heritage.

As you get closer to the stupa the colorful prayer flags wave in the breeze and guide you the rest of the way, creating a sense of peaceful anticipation. Upon reaching the stupa this magnificent sight unfolds before you, the whitewashed walls with intricate carvings and colourful offerings. Then having the stunning views of the Kathmandu Valley behind you lets you immerse yourself in both nature and the stupa’s spirituality. 

Entry to Jamchen Vijaya Stupa is free, the site is also open 7 days a week, from 10:00 – 17:00. 

Everest Mountain Flight

There’s certainly something magical about seeing the Himalayas from above. I don’t believe this Kathmandu travel guide would be complete without suggesting you embark on a truly awe-inspiring journey and booking a scenic Everest flight.

Elevate your adventure to new heights by taking to the skies above Kathmandu and witnessing the majestic Himalayas in all their splendour. And, one of the perks is, this can all be done from the comfort of your window seat, or ask the crew to visit the flight deck to get an even better look at the spectacular Mount Everest. 

These scenic flights depart from Kathmandu Airport and are for 1 hour.

From Kathmandu: 1-hour Panoramic Everest Flight ~ Get Your Guide.

Patan

On the outskirts of Kathmandu, Patan intrigues travellers with its captivating blend of history, art, and culture. This ancient city boasts its own Durbar Square and plenty of narrow alleyways lined with artisan workshops, where traditional craftsmanship thrives. 

The Patan Museum, a trove of cultural treasures, unveils artifacts that span centuries, offering a deeper insight into Nepal’s artistic heritage. And, the Golden Temple, which dates back to 1409 and is also Newari Buddhist Monestry. Whether you’d like to marvel at the harmonious blend of Hindu & Buddhist architecture, shop at local markets or immerse yourself in the vibrant local life, Patan is a great area to visit while staying in Kathmandu.

Nepali Cooking Class and Trying Local Food

To enhance this Kathmandu travel guide I need to point out how delicious the food is in Nepal and urge you to embark on a culinary adventure that tantalizes both your taste buds and cultural curiosity.

Booking a cooking class in Kathmandu offers an immersive journey into the heart of Nepali cuisine, allowing you to uncover the secrets of preparing traditional dishes like momos and dal bhat.

And, of course beyond the classroom, dive into the local food scene in Kathmandu where street stalls, cafes & restaurants entice with an array of aromatic flavours.

Kathmandu: Private Cooking Class with Transfers and Lunch ~ Get Your Guide.

Garden of Dream in Kathmandu with large pond in view. The pond has many Lilly pads on it
Garden of Dreams
Elyse standing in front of Jamchen Vijaya Stupa in Kathmandu
Jamchen Vijaya Stupa
View of the Himalayas mountain range from the plane window
The Himalayas
Local souvenirs sold at Patan market. Kathmandu Travel Guide
Patan Durbar Square. Kathmandu Travel Guide
Patan

Restaurants in Thamel

Thamel is the vibrant heart of Kathmandu and where most tourists will find themselves eating out. So, your Kathmandu travel guide wouldn’t be complete without indulging in the diverse offerings of Thamel’s restaurants.

From cozy cafes serving aromatic Nepali chai and mouthwatering momos to larger restaurants dishing out global flavours, Thamel caters to every palate.

The Thamel food scene is forever expanding and very rarely disappoints but I wanted to include a few of the best restaurants in Thamel, that have all stood the test of time! 

Electric Pagoda Bar & Cafe

This is by far my favourite restaurant in Thamel, not necessarily because of the food though. Electric Pagoda, tucked away behind the Kathmandu Guest House, offers the most beautiful and peaceful atmosphere. 

Sitting on the floor with plenty of cushions, a small table and chill-out beats playing in the background, I almost need to be dragged out I love it so much. 

OR2K

Now this place has amazing food, it’s Israeli-run and serves vegetarian Middle Eastern dishes. But when planning to have a meal at OR2K, you may need to have a bit of time up your sleeve because the service can be rather slow! 

But the food is delicious and like Electric Pagoda the chilled-out vibes will have you feeling very relaxed.

Fire and Ice Pizzeria

Fire and Ice open its doors in Kathmandu way back in 1995, and is still serving up fresh salads, wood fire Pizzas and heaps more authentic Italian dishes. 

This may be one of the most expensive restaurants in Kathmandu (not compared to Australian prices but by Nepal standards, it’s expensive), but is extremely popular with tourists, mountaineers and locals so booking a table ahead of time is essential. 

Places Restaurant and Bar

This fully vegetarian restaurant is generally filled with ex-pats & tourists and located in the centre of Thamel. Not only serving fresh and healthy meals, but the comfortable floor cushions, low lighting and welcoming atmosphere makes this the perfect place to start a night out.

Places also regularly host live music and if major sporting events are on, you can be sure they’ll have it on the big screen. 

Anatolia

Anatolia is a Halal restaurant and is perfect if you want to share a number of dishes with friends. They serve a large variety of Turkish & Indian cuisine and being located upstairs gives you relaxing views of the streets below. 

Kathmandu Nightlife

As the sun sets over this enchanting city, Kathmandu’s nightlife comes alive, and nowhere is this more vibrant than Thamel. This popular tourist hub transforms into a lively playground for night owls and wanderers seeking after-hours adventures.

This Kathmandu travel guide wouldn’t be complete without experiencing the eclectic nightlife of Thamel. When I first started travelling to Nepal, venues would pretty much shut up shop by midnight, but that has all changed now!

The narrow streets are illuminated with neon lights, and rhythmic sounds pulse through the streets. Today there are so many bars, live music venues, and energetic clubs to choose from. Whether you’re mingling with fellow travellers over cocktails, enjoying the beat of traditional Nepali tunes, or simply soaking in the lively ambience, Thamel’s nightlife promises an unforgettable night out. 

The best way to experience Thamel’s nightlife scene is by hitting the streets to see & hear where the best venues will be that night.

So, I don’t want to tell you exactly where you should go, but here are a few of my favourites; Maya Bar to start the night off with 2-for-1 cocktails. Tom & Jerry’s (especially if you’re up for a game of pool) Sam’s Bar, Reggae Bar, Purple Haze, L.O.D and Senate Club. Then to end your night, if the mood is ‘chilled lounge vibes’ try Buddha Bar. Or if more alcohol and dancing are required, then head to Fire Club. 

Kathmandu restaurant guide. Electric Pagoda
Electric Pagoda
Food in Nepal. Veg Curry and nann
Street food stall in Kathmandu, Nepal
Street Food in Kathmandu

Accommodation in Kathmandu

Kathmandu offers a diverse range of accommodations that cater to every traveller’s preferences and budgets. From luxurious boutique hotels that offer traditional Nepali charm to cozy guesthouses tucked away in vibrant alleyways. 

All over Thamel, there is a multitude of guesthouses, hostels, and hotels that await, ensuring easy access to the best sites in Kathmandu. And, if you head straight into Thamel without having pre-booked accommodation booked, don’t worry. Thamel always has something available, and for budget travellers last-minute rooms can be picked up for as little as 10 USD a night.

For a more serene escape, the outskirts of Kathmandu boast stunning resorts, allowing you to unwind amidst breathtaking mountain views.

I’ve always spent the majority of my time in Nepal staying in homestays. This is the perfect option for those who prefer to “live like a local”. Kathmandu locals rent out rooms in their homes for around 8 USD per night and this price will usually include breakfast and dinner. It’s a wonderful opportunity to savour local flavours and get a taste of what home-cooked Dal Bhat is all about!

No matter where you choose to stay, Kathmandu’s accommodations promise an unforgettable fusion of comfort and cultural immersion.

Hotel Nana (very budget but amazing location in Thamel)

Kathmandu Guest House by KGH Group (great rates considering how good the location in Thamel is and the garden/restaurant area is stunning)

Green Valley Resort (on the outskirts of Kathmandu)

More Tips on Traveling in Kathmandu, Nepal

Do you want more travel tips on visiting Nepal’s capital city? Including transport in Kathmandu & when is the best time to visit Nepal. 

Click here for my in-depth travel guide on visiting Nepal 

Kathmandu Travel Guide ~ In Conclusion 

Nowhere in the world has filled my soul with more good energy or put things into perspective than Nepal has. In a country that’s been through many hard times & heartache, the Nepalese people still manage to find sunshine every day and work hard not just to help themselves but all those around them. Kathmandu is at the centre of this and every Nepal itinerary needs to allow time to explore this captivating city. 

In this Kathmandu travel guide, I have included the best things to do in Kathmandu, nightlife and the most worthy restaurants to enjoy a meal. Plus heaps more travel tips for visiting Nepal.

If you have any further questions or need more information, please comment below and I will gladly get back to you.

Thanks for reading,

Happy Travels.

If you found this information helpful, please consider booking your trip via my affiliate links. This won’t be at any extra cost to you and will help fund this blog, thank you.

Up Next – Find the best places to visit, just outside the Valley. The Best Day Trips And Weekend Getaways From Kathmandu

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walking down the colorful streets of Thamel in Kathmandu, Nepal

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Where to Next?

If you’re unsure of where to travel next, why not check out my Destination Page. Filled with informative travel guides from all over the world.

Searching For The Best Flights

Without a doubt the best site for comparing and booking flights is Skyscanner. Just click here to compare flights and get the best prices with Skyscanner. 

Booking Accommodation 

Then when it comes to booking accommodation; if you’re after a hostel the best place to search is HostelWorld.

Or, if you’d prefer a hotel or resort, Booking.com or Agoda are two of the best sites out there, they consistently return cheap rates.

Get Your Cashback

Before you book though don’t forget to activate your Rakuten browser extension so you get cashback on these bookings. 

Don’t know what Rakuten is? Read my guide here!

And, Don’t Forget Travel Insurance 

Unfortunately, everything doesn’t always go to plan but travel insurance will protect you when it comes to illness, injury, theft & cancellation. I never travel overseas without travel insurance, it’s just not worth the risk! 

Cover-More is a trusted company and they also have COVID-19 benefits available. 

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This Post Has 13 Comments

  1. Lia Johnson

    Love it Elyse and Bianca, can you please mention IGWR’s website and apartment details for us…

  2. peter

    Fantastic read Elyse, well done. Great info and tips. Hope you get a big following.

    1. aworldtolive

      Thanks so much Peter 😊

      and thanks Lia, if you click on the wording In Giving We Receive, it’ll open the website in a new tab. Can you send me the link to where the apartment is listed?

  3. Gaye Gray

    Wonderful blog! Captures Nepal beautifully. Xx

  4. Mo

    Very well detailed Elyse. Nepal is most certainly “more” than just mountains and trekking… ^-^

  5. Cosette

    There’s indeed a lot to do in Kathmandu/ How many days would you recommend?

    1. Elyse

      Yeah for sure, a minimum of 4 or 5 days, but you could definitely spend longer there

  6. Anja

    Great guide. I hope to visit Nepal next year, and this will serve as a good introduction!

  7. Indrani

    Somehow Nepal has been eluding me… I will not give up though. This article seems God-sent indicating I must plan soon. Great useful and helpful travel guide. Loved those souvenirs, hope I can pick them up some at least.

  8. Sophie

    I visited Nepal in 2012 when I hiked to Everest base camp and I absolutely loved Kathmandu. I loved Boudhanath Stupa and completely agree that it felt meditative walking around it. I really hope to go back soon, so will be saving this guide for when I do. There’s so much I haven’t seen yet! I’d definitely love to take a cooking class. Thanks for the inspiration.

  9. Farrah

    I’d love to get to visit here someday–it’d be awesome to get to check out the Garden of Dreams + to take a Nepali cooking class!

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